Elegance and sensuality grace Milan Fashion Week

A model backstage prior to the presentation of Atsushi Nakashima's Fall-Winter 2023-2024 Women's collection on Sunday
A model backstage prior to the presentation of Atsushi Nakashima’s Fall-Winter 2023-2024 Women’s collection on Sunday.
Photo: Miguel MEDINA / AFP
Source: AFP

Women’s Fashion Week ended in Milan on Monday.

Here are some of the trends that emerged for autumn-winter 2023-2024 — a return to elegance underscored by cut and quality, chic sensuality, and restrained classicism with a smattering of eccentric spice.

Elegant suits

Italian fashion houses have ditched sporty designs and streetwear for elegant, classically cut suits in refined fabrics.

Trousers are long and shoe-covering. Oversized power-shoulder jackets have made way for classic cuts — waisted, belted or gathered at the back.

Dolce & Gabbana showed suits with jackets that are cropped, matador style, or long but structured with wasp waists.

Suits were on display at the Fendi show and elsewhere
Suits were on display at the Fendi show and elsewhere.
Photo: Miguel MEDINA / AFP
Source: AFP

Fendi opted for slimline jackets with a single row of buttons, discrete lapel collars and a deconstructed men’s waistcoat.

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Ferragamo was all cinched-waisted silhouettes, reminiscent of 1950s Hollywood divas.

Max Mara’s coats are gathered at the back, Tod’s jackets waisted or belted, while Moschino went for suits with houndstooth and gold buttons à la Chanel.

Winter lingerie

The effects of climate change made themselves felt on the Milan podiums, where winter collections were diaphanous and revealing, and lingerie much in evidence.

Dolce & Gabbana claimed ownership of this trend, showing a corset bearing a label with its creation date — 1991. Its collection was almost entirely composed of black underwear.

Fendi layered baby dolls over poplin shirts.

Roberto Cavalli vamped up the lingerie
Roberto Cavalli vamped up the lingerie.
Photo: Miguel MEDINA / AFP
Source: AFP

Roberto Cavalli vamped on the theme, with long hippy versions in silk and velvet.

Gucci opted for bijou micro bras

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Armani gives graceful close to Milan Fashion Week

MILAN (AP) — It was nipples out on the Milan Fashion Week runway this season, one of the clear trends emerging from a week of previews of mostly womenswear collections for next fall and winter.

Wherever there is a trend, there is always the counter-current, and holding out for what he described as “the dignity of women” was Giorgio Armani. Where sheer fabrics were employed in his collection, it was with modesty.

Armani’s show closed out fashion week on Sunday. Here are highlights from the last day of live runway shows:

TOMO KOIZUMI PUTS A SMILEY FACE ON FASHION

With swirls of colored taffeta and satin gathered into crushed roses, Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi put a smiley face on a rainy Sunday morning.

The exuberant looks were spasms of color fashioned into ruffles on a minidress constructed from stripes of knitwear, elaborate skirts with deep slits and dresses with southern belle silhouettes. These are occasion pieces that would be standouts on any red carpet, stage or party; imagine the lucky girl wearing one to prom.

The runway show was in collaboration with Dolce & Gabbana, which supplied textiles as well as handbags and shoes, Koizumi said. He turned a print from one of the Italian house’s recent collections into a series of 3-D floral creations.

“I took inspiration from Dolce & Gabbana, and I also got powerful support, which allowed me to push myself even harder,’’ Koizumi said.

Koizumi also put out there his dream: “To be hired by as creative director of a major fashion house.”

GIORGIO ARMANI’S INTIMATE PEEK INSIDE

Giorgio Armani once again gave the fashion world a glimpse of idealized life inside Milan’s stately palazzi, populated by women for whom dressing in comfort and style are not a contradiction.

Satiny loungewear in soothing earthy tones skimmed

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