Spring 2023 New York Fashion Week review: Variety of unique, outgoing shows | Reviews




New York Fashion Week Photo

New York Fashion Week 2006: Mara Hoffman. (Art Commons/Creative Commons)


One of the biggest fashion events in the world is New York Fashion Week. It takes place twice a year in September and February with attendees from around the world. This was the first winter show since COVID-19 that showcased all in-person shows and the turnout was gigantic. 

With 74 shows across a six-day span, everyone from A-list celebrities to never before seen designers took the stage. This season’s shows varied in a mix of traditional, more unique and very outgoing presentations. 

“While many collections emphasized everyday wearability, with designers including Gabriela Hearst, LaQuan Smith and Sandy Liang showing clothes that could go from runway to closet, others such as Rodarte and Thom Browne instead put forward more whimsical ideas,” a CNN Style article wrote. 

Rodarte, a higher end clothing brand that can be found at Saks and Neiman Marcus, went with a “dark fairytale” style collection to kick off the week on Friday. Many looks were presented with wings and dark makeup to enhance the gothic theme, even though many pieces had a lot of color. Euronews described the show as “The Black Swan effect” considering two sisters who work for Rodarte – Kate and Laura Mulleavy – designed tutus for the 2010 film “The Black Swan.”  

Another very unique show from the week was by designer Thom Browne. The outfits and makeup resembled something very circus or space like with unique makeup and vibrant colors and patterns. The show was titled “Tick tock, tick toc,” and according to browne-fall-winter-2023-runway-fashion-show-nyfw-looks”L’officiel “Inspired by ‘The Little Prince,’Browne reminds us to break free from monotonous routines and embrace a childlike wonder.” Many looks contained clocks. Whether they were on shoes, briefcases

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The eight style lessons to take away from London Fashion Week

When the going gets tough, the tough dress up. Always have. Always will. It’s an atavistic human reflex. When battle looms you literally slap on your war paint. Maxed-out glamour during the 1930s. Lipstick duties during the 1940s. Solar bursts of yellow, body-caressing, stretchy knits, grown-up knee-length skirts, the crispest of shirts, plush coats and a whole lot of dress-up kit at London Fashion Week, February 2023.

This is not a balmy climate, particularly if you’re an independent designer without the cushion of perfumes, sunglasses and make-up to prop you up through the lean times and the occasional global pandemic.

And yet… this is the first time since Covid closed everything down that London Fashion Week has seemed close to recovering its old sparky spirit – both on the catwalk and the line up of A-listers in attendance, from Vanessa Redgrave to Florence Pugh and Stormzy, all proving that British fashion is still a draw.

It helped that Burberry is back here, with a new designer, 37-year-old Daniel Lee, who combines a rugged Yorkshire sensibility with the impeccable Milanese savoir-faire he learned during his spectacularly successful tenure at Bottega Veneta. Of special note: the cosy coats and functional trenches, trimmed with a mix of sheepskin and fake fur – and the deluxe saddle and gardener’s bags. 

Then there are the smaller but long-lived labels such as Roksanda, Erdem, Christopher Kane and Emilia Wickstead whose loyal fan bases have focused their designer minds on the kind of clothes that work for real life. Add in the pipeline of younger talent such as Tove, the label founded in 2019 by two Topshop veterans, and Richard Quinn, who won the first Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design in 2018 and has subsequently finessed his exuberant glamour into a supremely sophisticated

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These 3 Trends Where All Over The Runways At London Fashion Week

The fashion set have made their second stop on their bi-annual world tour, also known as fashion month.

The latest stop on their sartorial odyssey? London Fashion Week.

From Central Saint Martins to the crypts of Saint Paul’s Cathedral, Britain’s best and brightest talents served up a course of Fall/Winter fashion certainly proven to appeal to the luxury consumer’s appetites.
Or at least make you crave an early winter thanks to the designers most recent interpretations of cold-weather approved ensembles.

Over at the seductive runways at Nensi Dojaka and 16Arlington, their ideas of bracing the cold weather was to not cover up at all. Save for a leather bomber or faux fur coat, these designers focused on silhouettes that were heavy on sensuality and skin-baring ensembles, and light on wet weather materials.

Across the Thames at Chet Lo and Burberry, these respective emerging and established designers prioritised quintessentially British wear through the prevalence of utilitarian, street-wear approved styles.
But nevertheless, these designers collections will soon be pinned at the top of our winter dressing mood boards for the season ahead. Below, the trends that we’ve got our eyes on as ones to watch from London Fashion Week.

Given that London has been an epicentre of arts, culture and fashion since, well, antiquity, it’s expected that the designers showing in England would take sartorial inspiration from England’s vast and rich history.

Irish darling Simone Rocha’s FW/23 collection continued her astute dedication to modernising Victorian-era romanticism, presenting a fairy-tale inspired collection filled with lace bow motifs and naval cues that easily transport us back to the upper echelon of the 19th Century.
Similarly, LVMH Prize winner S.S.Daley followed suit with the aquatic route. However, his collection included nostalgic striped blazer, Robinson Crusoe-type illustrations and contemporary Prince of Wales checks, making
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10 ways to transform your look for less

 

If there’s one thing that I’ve learnt over my many years as a fashion editor, it is that the most stylish people are not those that spend thousands on their wardrobes, and who only buy designer clothes.

Being able to afford items that are well-made can help, sure, but true style is about creativity, confidence and attitude. With that in mind, here are a few simple style lessons that I’ve learnt along the way – including from a few of my stylish friends and colleagues – that can help transform your look for less.

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True style isn't about how much you spend.

Getty Images

True style isn’t about how much you spend.

1. Small but mighty

Beauty minis are cute, yes, but can also be more wallet-friendly compared to full-sized products. Chemist Warehouse has a small but well-stocked travel section, while Mecca’s minis and travel size section is definitely worth a peruse (in-store, these items are often near the tills to encourage last minute purchases). It’s a great way to trial beauty products too, to see if they’re worth further investment.

2. Know how to shop chain stores

Fast fashion is not your friend, but for many it is the only way they are able to shop – whether for affordability or accessibility reasons. The key to shopping big chain stores is to know what to look for, and to reject impulse buying that will lead to the ever-growing pile of fashion waste.

Look for fabrics that will last (like 100% cotton, which is not perfect but often better than polyester),

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Kimora Lee Simmons cheers on lookalike daughter Aoki walking in fashion show

Sergio Hudson’s runway had onlookers doing a double take.

Model, businesswoman and fashion designer Kimora Lee Simmons snapped photos with her phone and cheered on daughter Aoki Lee Simmons from the front row as her lookalike model offspring strutted down the catwalk at Hudson’s New York Fashion Week show on Feb 11.

Aoki, 20, hit the runway twice during the show at Spring Studios in Manhattan, sporting a strong-shouldered black miniskirt suit with a purple statement belt and matching trim plus zippered pocket detailing, tights and sky-high heels.

Her second look, which she modelled as Megan Thee Stallion’s Her blasted from the speakers, was a charcoal denim ensemble with a long-sleeve button-front top and shorts, paired with a black belt and patent black platform heels.

The Baby Phat designer, 47, was beaming with a big smile as she watched her daughter walk the runway. She donned a yellow animal-print minidress with power shoulders, pairing it with tights and knee-high black boots for the occasion.

Other front row standouts included Joy Reid, Sunny Hostin and Tiffany D. Cross. Tucked away near the camera flashes was Real Housewives Of Salt Lake City star Meredith Marks.

There was also a full family affair the previous night at Prabal Gurung’s show on Feb 10, as Kimora Lee Simmons sat with Aoki and daughter Ming, 23, who she shares with ex Russell Simmons. Before hitting runways and modelling in campaigns as professionals, both daughters modelled for Baby Phat as kids.

Aoki has been vocal on TikTok about her experiences as a model – and as the daughter of two very famous parents. Ahead of New York Fashion Week, she took to the app to share tips on what to bring to a modelling job and showcasing her go-to model gear. – USA Today/Tribune News Service

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Elegance and sensuality grace Milan Fashion Week

A model backstage prior to the presentation of Atsushi Nakashima's Fall-Winter 2023-2024 Women's collection on Sunday
A model backstage prior to the presentation of Atsushi Nakashima’s Fall-Winter 2023-2024 Women’s collection on Sunday.
Photo: Miguel MEDINA / AFP
Source: AFP

Women’s Fashion Week ended in Milan on Monday.

Here are some of the trends that emerged for autumn-winter 2023-2024 — a return to elegance underscored by cut and quality, chic sensuality, and restrained classicism with a smattering of eccentric spice.

Elegant suits

Italian fashion houses have ditched sporty designs and streetwear for elegant, classically cut suits in refined fabrics.

Trousers are long and shoe-covering. Oversized power-shoulder jackets have made way for classic cuts — waisted, belted or gathered at the back.

Dolce & Gabbana showed suits with jackets that are cropped, matador style, or long but structured with wasp waists.

Suits were on display at the Fendi show and elsewhere
Suits were on display at the Fendi show and elsewhere.
Photo: Miguel MEDINA / AFP
Source: AFP

Fendi opted for slimline jackets with a single row of buttons, discrete lapel collars and a deconstructed men’s waistcoat.

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Ferragamo was all cinched-waisted silhouettes, reminiscent of 1950s Hollywood divas.

Max Mara’s coats are gathered at the back, Tod’s jackets waisted or belted, while Moschino went for suits with houndstooth and gold buttons à la Chanel.

Winter lingerie

The effects of climate change made themselves felt on the Milan podiums, where winter collections were diaphanous and revealing, and lingerie much in evidence.

Dolce & Gabbana claimed ownership of this trend, showing a corset bearing a label with its creation date — 1991. Its collection was almost entirely composed of black underwear.

Fendi layered baby dolls over poplin shirts.

Roberto Cavalli vamped up the lingerie
Roberto Cavalli vamped up the lingerie.
Photo: Miguel MEDINA / AFP
Source: AFP

Roberto Cavalli vamped on the theme, with long hippy versions in silk and velvet.

Gucci opted for bijou micro bras

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Meet the Indigenous designers shaking up Milan Fashion Week

Sage Paul has championed Indigenous fashion in Canada for more than a decade. The Toronto-based Dene designer and Indigenous Fashion Arts (IFA) executive’s next mission: breaking down barriers in the global industry. This week, Paul has brought six Indigenous designers from across the country to Milan Fashion Week to showcase their work at the highly regarded trade show WHITE Milano (Feb. 24-27).

“I want our work valued. It’s not a token,” Paul tells The Globe and Mail, while sitting near Toronto’s Harbourfront Centre, where the Indigenous Fashion Arts Festival was held last June. WHITE attended last year’s festival and subsequently signed on to feature a different group of Indigenous Canadians each year until 2025. “WHITE Milano values craftsmanship, quality, luxury and one-of-a-kind pieces, which aligns with the work happening in our community,” explains Paul.

This is Paul’s first time taking a delegation abroad and the first international trade show for the designers, who will have access to the 16,000-20,000 visitors at WHITE, including local suppliers, prospective luxury partners and buyers like department stores Saks Fifth Avenue and Hudson’s Bay. For these rising stars and the broader fashion industry, it is a crucial moment in the emergence of Indigenous culture on mainstream platforms.

But many Indigenous designers need support accessing mainstream knowledge and opportunities, Paul explains. At the beginning of her career, Paul admits she felt like a “fish out of water” at standard fashion shows which featured requisite struts, stares and industry seriousness. “For a long time, the fashion industry has been an exclusive space, gate-kept by aristocrats, socialites and financially wealthy people. I am none of those things,” says Paul.

It is vital for organizers such as WHITE to provide additional labour to support designers and educate the industry on how to work with Indigenous people, says Paul.

Toronto-based

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Armani gives graceful close to Milan Fashion Week

MILAN (AP) — It was nipples out on the Milan Fashion Week runway this season, one of the clear trends emerging from a week of previews of mostly womenswear collections for next fall and winter.

Wherever there is a trend, there is always the counter-current, and holding out for what he described as “the dignity of women” was Giorgio Armani. Where sheer fabrics were employed in his collection, it was with modesty.

Armani’s show closed out fashion week on Sunday. Here are highlights from the last day of live runway shows:

TOMO KOIZUMI PUTS A SMILEY FACE ON FASHION

With swirls of colored taffeta and satin gathered into crushed roses, Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi put a smiley face on a rainy Sunday morning.

The exuberant looks were spasms of color fashioned into ruffles on a minidress constructed from stripes of knitwear, elaborate skirts with deep slits and dresses with southern belle silhouettes. These are occasion pieces that would be standouts on any red carpet, stage or party; imagine the lucky girl wearing one to prom.

The runway show was in collaboration with Dolce & Gabbana, which supplied textiles as well as handbags and shoes, Koizumi said. He turned a print from one of the Italian house’s recent collections into a series of 3-D floral creations.

“I took inspiration from Dolce & Gabbana, and I also got powerful support, which allowed me to push myself even harder,’’ Koizumi said.

Koizumi also put out there his dream: “To be hired by as creative director of a major fashion house.”

GIORGIO ARMANI’S INTIMATE PEEK INSIDE

Giorgio Armani once again gave the fashion world a glimpse of idealized life inside Milan’s stately palazzi, populated by women for whom dressing in comfort and style are not a contradiction.

Satiny loungewear in soothing earthy tones skimmed

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Where to Eat, Shop, and Play in London During LFW

Although this season’s London Fashion Week is already packed to the gills with shows, events, and watershed moments—celebrating the life of Dame Vivienne Westwood, to whom the five-day event has been dedicated; Daniel Lee’s first fashion show at Burberry; Florence Pugh making her runway debut—there will surely be moments of much-needed downtime for the editors, celebs, and fashion enthusiasts roaming the English city’s streets. Plenty of stylish folks will surely hit up London’s noted hot spots (photo shoot in the bathroom at Sketch, anyone?) through February 21. But where are the if-you-know-you-know bars, restaurants, shops, galleries, and cafés among such classics as the Tate and the original Dover Street Market? Below, you’ll find a list of W’s favorite places to check out during a stay in LDN, from an Indian-fusion restaurant in Brixton to vintage shopping on Portobello Road.

Where to Eat

Rita’s

49 Lexington Street, Carnaby, London W1F 9AP

An intimate choice for dinner (or a drink) in Soho, Rita’s serves modern American food in a wholly British setting. Book a window seat and enjoy the people watching.

Kol Restaurant

9 Seymour Street, Marylebone, London W1H 7BA

Courtesy of Kol Restaurant

With its nine-course tasting menu, Kol offers “Mexican soul, British ingredients”—think langoustine tacos or chicharron with pumpkin. The downstairs Mezcaleria in this Marylebone establishment is perfect for a cocktail before or after dinner.

Rochelle Canteen

16 Playground Gardens, London E2 7FA

Courtesy of Rochelle Canteen

Great for a quick working lunch, Rochelle Canteen offers seasonal dining, feels classic, and strikes a nice balance between local and elevated cuisines.

The River Café

Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, London W6 9HA

A classic favorite within a unique space, chef Ruth Rogers’s River Café is always a good choice. Save room for the lemon tart—you won’t be disappointed.

The Pelican

45

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Vietnamese designer to debut collection at Paris Fashion Week | DTiNews

Vietnamese designer Tran Phuong Hoa is set to present her wedding dress collection on March 4 during Paris Fashion Week.




Vietnamese designer Tran Phuong Hoa (fourth from left) and models in New York Fashion Week.
Hoa will be the only Vietnamese ready-to-wear clothing designer attending the prestigious fashion event this year.

At present, she is busy completing her 15 designs using traditional natural materials of Vietnam Lanh My A, a delicate cloth woven from the finest silk fibres produced in Tan Chau Silk Village in the southern province of An Giang.

The 31-year-old designer is residing in Ha Tinh province and graduated from National Economics University in Hanoi. She now mostly lives and works in Ho Chi Minh City.

She built the wedding dress brand Eleven S, which has proved to be a favourite among many Vietnamese artists and celebrities.

Paris Fashion Week is one of the four largest fashion weeks across the world, alongside the likes of London, New York, and Milan fashion weeks.

This year’s Feb. 27 – Mar. 7 event will feature the participation of nearly 100 designers from around the globe, introducing fashion collections performed by more than 1,000 models.

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