Expectations were high for this season’s London Fashion Week (LFW). A collective anticipation was palpable as guests sat back for Daniel Lee’s Burberry debut, JW Anderson’s dive into the archives, and what calendar mainstays had cooked up for the capital’s fashion crowd. 

What became clear early on in the schedule was that gimmicks were out. The industry waved goodbye to its previous penchant for spectacle-filled seasons, and welcomed a paired-back approach of quiet pragmatism. 

Following previous seasons packed with viral-worthy performances, designers chose to focus their attention on honing their craft.

Molly Goddard (whose collection generated $21,000 Instagram Earned Media Value (EMV), according to influencer marketing platform Lefty) invited her circle into the intimate setting of her namesake label’s atelier, where she presented a scaled-back display of the designs that have solidified her presence as a LFW pillar. 

Goddard’s preppy, tulle goodness underwent a toned-down rebrand, with the designer opting to revisit the ideas of simplicity and origin in her work. Show notes from the presentation read, “It’s not about drama or optics, but wearability and the joy of dressing.” 

Molly Goddard AW23 collection features sophisticated knitwear and tulle dresses. Photo: Molly Goddard

Influential names like Goddard prioritized streamlining over optics, showing that — this time — designers were calling for compliments for the clothes, rather than paying attention to what would make the rounds on TikTok. 

Even on Sunday, which boasted some of the biggest names of the week, London got the memo that flamboyant fashion needs a break. Sleepy models in smiley-face rompers weaved through the audience at JW Anderson, as street-cast faces chose comfort at Burberry on Monday evening, clutching checkered hot water bottles while swaddled in fur robes. 

Both designers decided to look back at their houses’ respective archives. Jonathan Anderson pulled references from his