London Fashion Week Fall 2023: Burberry And JW Anderson Look Back With Pride

Expectations were high for this season’s London Fashion Week (LFW). A collective anticipation was palpable as guests sat back for Daniel Lee’s Burberry debut, JW Anderson’s dive into the archives, and what calendar mainstays had cooked up for the capital’s fashion crowd. 

What became clear early on in the schedule was that gimmicks were out. The industry waved goodbye to its previous penchant for spectacle-filled seasons, and welcomed a paired-back approach of quiet pragmatism. 

Following previous seasons packed with viral-worthy performances, designers chose to focus their attention on honing their craft.

Molly Goddard (whose collection generated $21,000 Instagram Earned Media Value (EMV), according to influencer marketing platform Lefty) invited her circle into the intimate setting of her namesake label’s atelier, where she presented a scaled-back display of the designs that have solidified her presence as a LFW pillar. 

Goddard’s preppy, tulle goodness underwent a toned-down rebrand, with the designer opting to revisit the ideas of simplicity and origin in her work. Show notes from the presentation read, “It’s not about drama or optics, but wearability and the joy of dressing.” 

Molly Goddard AW23 collection features sophisticated knitwear and tulle dresses. Photo: Molly Goddard

Influential names like Goddard prioritized streamlining over optics, showing that — this time — designers were calling for compliments for the clothes, rather than paying attention to what would make the rounds on TikTok. 

Even on Sunday, which boasted some of the biggest names of the week, London got the memo that flamboyant fashion needs a break. Sleepy models in smiley-face rompers weaved through the audience at JW Anderson, as street-cast faces chose comfort at Burberry on Monday evening, clutching checkered hot water bottles while swaddled in fur robes. 

Both designers decided to look back at their houses’ respective archives. Jonathan Anderson pulled references from his

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Fashion Designers’ One-liners Featured in Marylou Luther’s Vibrant New Book

Improbable as 70 years as a fashion journalist might seem, Marylou Luther remains ever-questioning and curious. A chronicler of more trends than she could ever count, the Nebraskan has been rooted in New York and traveled internationally for decades. All those years of interviews have given Luther a fine-tuned ear for the quotable, and now many of the bon mots that she elicited from designers fill “Be-Spoke: Revelations from the World’s Most Important Fashion Designers.”

With a career that stretches back to the era when Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Cristobal Balenciaga and other esteemed designers ran their namesake houses, the author’s perspective has widened as the fashion industry has burgeoned. Yohji Yamamoto, Demna Gvasalia, Alexander McQueen, Thom Browne, Rei Kawakubo, Michael Kors, Alexander Wang, Ricardo Tisci, John Galliano, Raf Simons, Alessandro Michele and Derek Lam are among the other featured designers in the colorful Rizzoli-published tome that features vibrant illustrations by Ruben Toledo.

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At times during a recent interview, the 92-year-old instinctively answered a question with a question or flipped a question back, eager to hear another opinion. In highlighting how “Be-Spoke” came to be, Luther also detailed some of her own memorable events in spotting the waves of fashion. The idea for the book surfaced while sifting through her files three years ago and noticed one titled “Designer Comments.” After floating the proposition by her friend of many years Toledo, who was game for the creative endeavor, Luther was off and running.

More than anything, the author wants people to know that designers have something to say, more than just the clothes that they produce. Case in point is André Courrèges, who predicted that trends that impact society for seven years or more always begin after a major calamity or a scientific

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Why Loewe Is Guaranteed To Be The ‘It’ Brand Of 2023

The name on everyone’s lips for the past few seasons is one half if us don’t even know how to pronounce. We are, of course, talking about Loewe (or “lo-weh-vay”, if you’re in need of a crash course).

Since 2013, when Irish creative director Jonathan Anderson took the helm of the brand, the luxury Spanish maison has been revered as one of the most imaginative and experimental labels in the luxury fashion fold.

Even through the pandemic, Loewe remained firm in their craft-first approach to design and unwavering commitment to working with innovative photographers, referencing avant garde artisans and keeping fashion frivolous.

However, it wasn’t really until the brand’s Spring/Summer 2022 show—the label’s first runway presentation after COVID—that we astutely sat up and paid attention.

Since that show, Loewe has focused on surrealist and experimental designs which are perfectly apt for the uncertain landscape we find ourselves navigating post-pandemic.

Simply put: Loewe has become synonymous with innovative and boundary pushing creations—whether this be a stiletto with a cracked egg heel, the bodice of a dress featuring pursed lips that slightly resembles this not-so-salubrious part of human anatomy, or a phallic-inspired anthurium dress.

Yet, despite the brand being coveted by the celebrity style set and lauded by industry insiders, it is only peripherally known on the mainstream.

So, before the brand blows up even further and begins to saturate every corner of the cultural zeitgeist, we’ve rounded up the eight things you likely didn’t know about Loewe, even if you are a bona fide style savant.

How Do You Pronounce Loewe?

But, before we get into it, we need to address the very important question of how to actually pronounce the label that will soon be selling out.

Loewe themselves are aware of the question mark that hovers

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